Fuji five lakes

Story and photos by Lawrence I. Charters

Seahawk, February 15, 1985, pp. 6-7.

Shiraito no Taki (White Thread Falls) are one of the more subtle treasures of the Fuji five lakes region; it has been protected as a natural monument since 1936. Scanned from a print.
Shiraito no Taki (White Thread Falls) are one of the more subtle treasures of the Fuji five lakes region; it has been protected as a natural monument since 1936. Scanned from a print.

Rising with a stately grace above the Misaka Mountains, Mt. Fuji is an instantly recognizable symbol of Japan. To many Japanese, Fujisan is the “perfect” mountain, surrounded by countless beautiful nature spots, with no nearby peaks to cause distractions, and with a splendid, almost flawlessly symmetrical cone-shaped peak. As the centerpiece of Fuji-Hakone-Izu Kokuritsu Koen (Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park), Fujisan and its environs have become the most popular vacation and resort area in the entire country.

A torii (gate) frames the snowy entrance to Sengen Shrine. The shrine incorporates elements of Buddhist and Shinto art and architecture. Scanned from a print.
A torii (gate) frames the snowy entrance to Sengen Shrine. The shrine incorporates elements of Buddhist and Shinto art and architecture. Scanned from a print.

Fujisan (the Japanese do not call it “Fujiyama”) is one of the most popular subjects of Japanese paintings and poems. The tallest peak in Japan (rising 12,385 feet), Fuji is an active volcano, its last major eruption coming in 1707. Its shape, size, volcanic origin, and isolation all contribute to the mountain’s mystique; add the changes brought on by the seasons and it is no wonder local Japanese used to believe the mountain was a living god.

Visitors sip from a dragon fountain at Sengen Shrine. [And no, I didn't notice the Confederate flag on the cap when I took the photo.] Scanned from a print.
Visitors sip from a dragon fountain at Sengen Shrine. [And no, I didn’t notice the Confederate flag on the cap when I took the photo.] Scanned from a print.

In spring, from the Orimono silk center (a popular shopping stop on tours), Fujisan is covered with snow, and the rice fields near the center are flooded and planted with new stalks. By mid-summer, Fuji has shed its winter coat, and takes on a black, menacing look, or a dreamy, misty blue coloring. The rice fields, in the interim, have turned to brilliant fields of green and gold grain.

A toro (stone lantern) rests beside a cedar tree on the grounds of Sengen Shrine. These stone lanterns are massive, ranging from half a ton to several tons each. Scanned from a print.
A toro (stone lantern) rests beside a cedar tree on the grounds of Sengen Shrine. These stone lanterns are massive, ranging from half a ton to several tons each. Scanned from a print.

Sengen Shrine, in the city of Fujinomiya, is the center of Fujiko, a religious sect which believes Fujisan is sacred. Combining elements of both Buddhism and Shinto, Fujiko adherents started the practice of climbing the mountain in a series of ten stages, the first stage starting at the shrine itself. From a quiet, peaceful cedar grove, planted by devotees over a thousand years ago, pilgrims begin a journey that lasts several days, taking time along the way to observe and pay their respects to nature.

Very cold trout in a pond at Oshino Hakkai, a small village famed for centuries for its view of Mt. Fuji, tasty food, and cozy inns. Scanned from a print.
Very cold trout in a pond at Oshino Hakkai, a small village famed for centuries for its view of Mt. Fuji, tasty food, and cozy inns. Scanned from a print.

Most modern climbers take buses directly to the Fifth Station, located halfway up the mountain. During the July 1 to August 26 climbing season, tens of thousands of climbers make the overnight trek, timed to put them at the top right at dawn.

Pleasure craft and tour boats frozen in place on Lake Kawaguchi. Scanned from a print.
Pleasure craft and tour boats frozen in place on Lake Kawaguchi. Scanned from a print.

Less strenuous attractions of the area include sightseeing tours along the Fuji Goko (Fuji five lakes) route, a counter-clockwise circuit of the mountain passing by Lakes Yamanaka, Kawaguchi, Sai, Shoji, and Motosu. Formed by lava dams blocking off valleys surrounding Fuji, each of the lakes has a character of its own. The attractions change with the seasons, too, from the clean, brittle look of snow in the winter to the exuberant explosion of autum colors. Devotees of these tours claim you must come in each of the four seasons to even begin to see Fuji properly.

For all the historic and natural sights, Fuji is also surrounded by a modern, thriving community, as seen by the boats and homes lining the shores of Lake Kawaguchi. Scanned from a print.
For all the historic and natural sights, Fuji is also surrounded by a modern, thriving community, as seen by the boats and homes lining the shores of Lake Kawaguchi. Scanned from a print.

Many years ago, American service personnel began the practice of initiating new arrivals with the statement: “You are a fool if you come to Japan and don’t climb Mt. Fuji.” Even if you know the second part of this famous injunction, there are few things you could do in Japan as relaxing as enjoying Fuji – in all four seasons.

A snow-capped Fuji rises behind a minka, a traditional Japanese farmhouse. Minka were once dismissed as relics of the past, but are now seen as historic landmarks. Scanned from a print.
A snow-capped Fuji rises behind a minka, a traditional Japanese farmhouse. Minka were once dismissed as relics of the past, but are now seen as historic landmarks. Scanned from a print.
Scanned copy of the original article as it appeared in the Seahawk. Reconstructed from several scans of a printed original.
Scanned copy of the original article as it appeared in the Seahawk. Reconstructed from several scans of a printed original.